Frontier20 Travertine Cross Cut Silver
|Colors||Earth Tones, Grays|
|Series/Collection||Frontier20 Travertine Look|
Frontier20 is a porcelain pavers collection perfectly suited for outdoor applications. The market’s demand for a stain-proof, slip-resistant, chemical resistant, no maintenance product led to the development of a revolutionary aesthetically superior product, enough versatility for exteriors as well as interiors. Combining the highest level of quality control and technology with state-of-the-art equipment, age-old practices have been revitalized to offer a superior industry leading product. Landmark's Frontier20 Travertine Cross Cut Silver offers a dimension never seen before to your outdoor living area.
We would list them all out here, but there are a lot of options. Instead, here is a well illustrated document from Landmark outlining the wide array of patterns.
The videos linked below show how to properly cut thick porcelain pavers (porcelain tiles with 20 mm thickness) currently used for outdoor installations. Cutting these porcelain thick pavers is very different than cutting standard thickness tiles. The extreme hardness of the material, combined with its thickness, are the main factors that will put cutting tools to the test.
Based on the experience of many professional tile installers, what often happens is that the basic blades make one or two good cuts on very thick tiles and then lose their cutting power. This causes the diamond blade to be so ruined that it can’t even be recovered with common abrasive stones. Many tile and brick installers have found a first solution for this: using segmented blades to cut these thicker tiles.
These are more aggressive blades that easily cut this type of ceramics leaving though a very poor cutting finish. There is then the need to spend time after each cut to finish the cut edge of the tile, especially if it is going to be laid in a position that leaves that edge visible after installation. It is important that the cut is made using a professional wet saw cutting machine and that is it made by pushing (or pulling, depending on how the cutting saw is built) the blade parallel to the plane from the beginning of the cut, applying a horizontal force (figure 1 and 2) to the trolley while avoiding to push (or pull) with excessive force.
Please note that the cut has to be performed at once with one passage. It is very important to pull down the blade without touching the tile and then pull/push the disc to cut the entire paver all at once.
It is not recommended (figure 3) to carry out the cut by applying a force perpendicular to the side of the cutting plane (basically pushing down the saw into the tile). In fact, performing a vertical cut could affect the internal tensions of the product and lead to tile breakage.
Another cutting method consists in making a groove about 2 / 3mm deep (figure 4) by applying a very light force perpendicular to the paver surface first and then making the final cut at once with one passage, as above reported in figure 1 and 2.
In both cases, it is always recommended to use high quality disc blades and to perform the revitalization operations of the latter whenever necessary to achieve a proper cut.
Landmark Ceramics recommends using a high quality blade specific for porcelain and revive it often. By using a low quality blade, or a blade not specifically made for porcelain, it might need to be revived 2 or even 3 times during the same cut. This can lead to extra costs related to the use of many diamond abrasive stones or, even worse, it can significantly increase the likelihood of breaking the paver during the cutting process.
During cutting, Landmark Ceramics always recommends the use of abundant water before, during, and after the cutting phases to minimize the presence or dispersion of ceramic powder and to cool down the blade.
Once the cut has been completed, Landmark Ceramics recommends to clean the newly cut surface with water, in order to remove all the dust from the paver created by the cutting operation.
DRILLING HOLES WITH CORE BITS
The creation of holes in traditional 9 / 10mm thick porcelain tile is a common practice, but it is very delicate and requires experience and technique. This is even more true for 20mm thick porcelain paver, being this particular tile thicker and more resistant.
To carry out this specific cut, it is recommended to use drills or grinders together with high quality core bits for porcelain tile and paver. The use of low quality core bits could cause numerous breakages, together with an extremely accelerated wear of the tool due to the resistance of the 20mm porcelain stoneware.
First of all, it is suggested to place the tile on a rigid support that absorbs the vibrations generated by the work (for example a panel of wood or regenerated rubber on a wooden panel).
After positioning the drill with the core bit in the desired position (remember to check that the drill is not in hammer mode) it is crucial to mark the exact point with a pencil, then proceed to place the core bit by tilting it slightly on the paver (figure 5).
Do not place the core bit perpendicularly to the paver surface as it could lead to the breakage of the paver itself.
Once the core bit is in place and already moving, gently (and without pushing too much) make a continual and constant oscillatory movement until the hole from top to bottom thorough the paver is complete.
Landmark Ceramics recommendation is to use a high quality core bit specific for porcelain.
By using a low quality core bit, or a core bit not specific for porcelain, the likelihood of breaking the paver during drilling operation could increase.
During drilling, Landmark Ceramics always recommends the use of abundant water before, during, and after the drilling phase to minimize the presence or dispersion of ceramic powder and to cool down the cutter.
Once the hole has been made, Landmark Ceramics recommends to clean the hole with water, in order to remove all the dust from the surface of the paver created by the drilling.
It is also possible, whenever needed, to adjust the shape of the hole created with specific tools that soften the cut made by milling eventual sharp/ irregular edges of the hole.
These tools are always made with artificial diamonds and should be specific for porcelain tiles and pavers.
|PHYSICAL PROPERTIES||TEST ASTM||NORTH AMERICAN STANDARD A137.1*||RESULTS|
|Water absorption *||C373||≤ 0.5%||COMPLY WITH ANSI A137.1|
|DCOF Average dynamic coefficient of friction **||BOT 3000 test||≥ 0.6||≥ 0.6|
|Skid Resistance||DIN 51097||-||A+B+C|
|Resistance to freeze/thaw cycling *||C1026||As reported||RESISTANT|
|Resistance to thermal shock||C484||As reported||RESISTANT|
|Warpage (edge)||C485||Warpage ± 0.4% or ± 0.05 in||COMPLY WITH ANSI A137.1|
|Warpage (diagonal)||C485||Warpage ± 0.4% or ± 0.07 in||COMPLY WITH ANSI A137.1|
|Wedging||C502||± 0.25% or ± 0.03 in||COMPLY WITH ANSI A137.1|
|Chemical resistance||C650||As reported||UNAFFECTED|
|Resistance to stain||C1378||As reported||UNAFFECTED|
|Thickness||C499||Range: 0.04 in||COMPLY WITH ANSI A137.1|
|Breaking strength||C648||250 lbf or greater||COMPLY WITH ANSI A137.1|
* Average values referred to our production and related to the matt finish of the product.
** As far as values relating to the matt finish of the product and to tests carried out by certified external laboratories whose results are avaible upon request at Headoffice, we are willing to check the lot you are interested in purchasing.
- Be sure to use pavers belonging to the same caliber.
- Test results are available on request.